A rhubarb muffin, a roast beef to-go lunch labeled “bear friendly,” and a summer guide opened to the bear encounter section. That’s how the day started.
Let me read you the relevant passage, because I think it’s important context for what followed.
If a bear approaches you and acts sneaky, it is likely displaying curious behavior. You should stand your ground, yell at the bear, and try to look large and intimidating. If a curious bear attacks, fight back.
If a bear moves toward you quickly and looks aggressive, it is likely displaying defensive behavior. Your movements and voice should be slow and soft. If a defensive bear attacks, play dead.
So. The primary skill required out there is correctly identifying whether the bear is curious or defensive, sneaky or aggressive, in the approximately two seconds between spotting it and needing to act. I’m going to be honest with you: I don’t think I’m going to remember any of that under pressure. This is the other reason I’ve been doing most of my exploring from the car.
The Landslide Problem
Here’s what I wish I’d known before coming to Denali: a major landslide in 2021 closed the park road beyond a certain point and the repair estimate runs through 2026. The shot I came for — Wonder Lake with Denali reflected in the water, mile 84 — is inaccessible by bus or car. You can hike in, or you can charter a small plane. I didn’t know this. I bumbled in expecting to get close to the mountain and found instead that the park road stops well short of where the real views begin.
That said, I want to be fair to the experience. The Horseshoe Lake Trail near the park entrance was a solid morning hike — simple by Alaskan standards, beautiful by any other. And the pulloffs between Denali National Park and Denali State Park, somewhere in that long stretch of wilderness between the two, produced some of the most overwhelming scenery I’ve encountered anywhere. No homes, no development, just mountains in every direction and the occasional semi blowing past. My dad used to say why is everybody in such a goddamn hurry. He had a point.
Talkeetna
Talkeetna is what happens when a funky little mountain town decides to just be itself and not apologize for it. I rolled through it on the way back down and wished immediately that I’d given it more time. It sits at the confluence of three rivers and is the staging ground for most of the serious Denali climbing expeditions. Small airstrips, float planes, a character quotient that reads well above its population. Noted for next time.
The Photography Adjustment
I keep seeing prints in the gift shops and on the walls of places up here — photographers who live in Alaska and know every location, every season, every hour of light. I come in for three days and expect to find those shots. That’s not how it works and I know it, but I keep forgetting it. The guy who got the definitive Wonder Lake reflection shot has probably been waiting for it for years. I need to give myself the grace of being a visitor rather than a resident, take what the place offers me, and file the rest under reasons to come back.
11 p.m., Pizza, Two More Moose
Back at the McKinley Creekside cabins. It’s 11 p.m. and the sun is doing that thing where it pretends to set but doesn’t really. The pizza place next door is open until 2 in the morning because in Alaska at this time of year, time is a loose concept. Two moose were down in the meadow on the walk over.
Seward tomorrow. It’s a long drive — which means longer the way I drive it. Then the following day I’m on a boat going to the glaciers. Whales almost certain. I’ll see you out there.
In Episode #17 of my 50 at 60 journey, I dedicate an entire day to exploring the magnificent area around Denali, Alaska. The day begins with a chat at my creekside cabin, where I discuss the confusing information about bear safety provided by the park. I delve into some intriguing details about Denali National Park, highlighting its partial closure due to a landslide a couple of years ago. Later, I embark on a scenic drive to Talkeetna, soaking in the breathtaking views along the way. Throughout the drive, I share some random thoughts from the car, capturing the essence of my travel experience. The video concludes with a collection of stunning photographs taken throughout the day in Alaska. Join me for a day of exploration, insights, and natural beauty.
